@teastain Thank you! this is insightful. Really appreciated. i'd have to look into it when i have the time... perhaps the type of battery? i don't know. but at this point.. USB-C it is.. hahahah

@m4biz Fantastic news!

You can also put a small
delay(500);
In the loop to keep it from locking up and becoming very hard to upload another sketch!

But: GREAT JOB !

@basvandepavert Thanks for getting back to me!
Let me know!
-Terry

@patofoto Well, it took months and months but finally some guys over on the GitHub for ESP-Arduino finally found it!
https://github.com/espressif/arduino-esp32/issues/8324#issuecomment-1725784617
The helper util file in the onewire lib had an outdated notion that there could not possibly be pins greater that 33.
I edited mine and now it works!
Wow, what a ride!
-Terry

@teastain2
Thanks, I'll take step 3

Does anyone else have any advice on what’s going on here?

@papbo What is your current ESP32 version? Try upgrading?

@cchobbyfun
Well, Arduino IDE 2.0 is much nicer to use with very little learning curve!
ESP 2.0.11 board defs are most likely mandatory but older ones may still work.
I would update all libraries and, then, I would copy the contents of the Lib directly to your libraries and overwrite all, as 'replace'. In that order.
["I typically download the zip from Git Hub and launch from the extracted files. Is that good enough? If I have that local file structure do I need any of the libraries installed? "] should be OK.

@teastain2 Oh, that's great! Thanks for support!

@eifel69
I was able to see the clock lettering (Alivaba font) by opening up the ESPTouch app and passing my WiFi credentials while the FACTORY was loaded in my T-Display-S3.

My favorite YouTuber Volos has a good video where he covers how to use custom fonts.
https://youtu.be/R-qFKemDFyM

This is part 3, so it’s also worth reviewing parts 1 and 2. Hope that helps.

UPDATE: Just realized my clock is an hour off. Hope your results are better.

same problem iam facing

The other issue is I ordered the non-soldered version, which comes with the connector strips loose in the box.
Generally I prefer to solder in my own when needed, on the pins needed. But as the display overlaps the other side of the board it's going to require some really tricky, careful work to get them in there without damaging anything

The functionality of the board and display is fantastic. I think it's great, just a couple of physical issues for some applications. Ordering with pre-soldered pins is probably a better option for this one.

@fdaher 👍

@roblatour Great news!
I will add it to my GitHub repo and credit you!
https://github.com/teastainGit/LilyGO-T-display-S3-setup-and-examples
-Terry

@teastain fantastic link many thanks again, do you know anything about using DMA on the ESP32-S3?

I want to try and improve the gfx performance of the Arduino_GFX library, and it looks like memory performance is quite the limiting factor (possibly due to the canvas buffers being allocated in ps_ram?).

@tavdog I saw Mickey closed your issue in LilyGO T-Display S3 repository ?

This is confusing because swap bytes is much like reversing a film negative in that it should change radically with swap bytes true or false.

Did you checkout my LilyGO T-Display S3 repository ?

[edit] I just did this test of your image on my LilyGO T-Display S3 !IMG_5776 2.JPG
point is that blue came out blue and red is red!

@teastain2 Bingo! that worked, changing
Wire.begin();
to
Wire.begin(26, 14);

so pinout for I2C on T-relay 8X is
SDA: pin 26
SCL: pin 14

thank you!

@teastain2 Thanks for the hint !
This is exactly what I was looking for and worked perfectly.

@teastain2 ... OMG ... I got it running ... and I am almost to embarrsed to tell the reason ... obviously the breadboard I was using for the T-Display was broken and did not have contact for pin 13 😞 Changing the breadboard solved the problem, Ethernet is now working correctly!

@teastain2 Thank you Terry,

I'll give the instructions a go and see if I make it to work the way I want.